Work on fully dry clay. Seal first, finish last—use Dip Sealer (Matte) to set the surface before doming.

Apply thin coats and let each layer set before the next. Once applied, let the coating level undisturbed on a flat surface, and cover loosely while drying to protect from dust.

Work on fully dry Artisan Clay. If the clay is till damp, coatings can haze, trap moisture, or cure unevenly.

• Seal first, finish last.
  Start with Dip Sealer (Matte), then add Gloss Dome or Velvet Dome if you want added depth and protection.
• Thin coats. Thin, even layers level better, cure harder, and stay clearer than one heavy coat.
• Let layers set. Don’t recoat soft layers—if it dents or fingerprints, it’s not ready.
• Let it level undisturbed.
  Keep pieces flat while leveling. Cover loosely to protect from dust.

Step 1 — Surface prep

• Confirm the piece is fully dry and dust-free.
• If sanding, remove dust with a soft brush or dry cloth.
• Avoid lotion/oil on hands right before finishing.

Dip Sealer (Matte) is the Seal stage—your surface-prep coat that helps the finish read clean and even.

Best practice:

• Stir gently (don’t shake—shaking creates bubbles).
• Apply a thin, even coat (dip or brush).
• Let it level flat, then cover loosely while it dries.

Use a dome after sealing if you want extra depth and protection:

• Gloss Dome: highest clarity + strongest contrast
• Velvet Dome: softer depth + reduced glare (ceramic-inspired look)

Best practice:

• Apply a measured amount, then let it self-level.
• Avoid overworking once it’s down—apply, then step back.

Finished pieces are intended for everyday handling, but studio finishes perform best with care:

• Avoid continuous soaking or prolonged water immersion.
• Do not dishwasher or leave submerged.
• Avoid prolonged high heat.
• Clean with a damp cloth; avoid harsh solvents or abrasives.

No. These finishes are not two-part epoxies. They don’t require measuring/mixing, and they cure without UV lamps.

Drying depends on coat thickness, temperature, humidity, and airflow. Use these as practical targets:

Between coats

• Recoat when the surface feels dry and firm (not cool/tacky).
• If you can leave a fingerprint or dent, wait longer.

Handling

• Light handling: overnight is best.
• For wearables or frequently handled pieces, allow extra cure time.

Full cure (durability)

• For maximum hardness and water resistance: 48–72 hours after the final coat.
• Thicker coats and domes may take longer.

Tip for best leveling: cure at room temperature in a still, dust-protected spot.

Thin coats prevent trapped moisture and keep edges clean.

• Keep it flat while leveling—small tilts can pool.
• Dust control matters—cover loosely while drying.
• Record your process (number of coats + dry times) for repeatable results.
• Avoid direct heat tools.

No. These finishes are for art objects and wearables, not food contact.

No. These finishes are not two-part epoxies:

• no measuring/mixing ratio
• no pot life pressure
• no UV lamp required

They cure naturally as a water-borne coating system.

Yes. They’re water-borne and low-odor. Use standard studio practices: ventilation, surface protection, wash hands after use.

How does it handle heat? Can I use a heat gun or oven?

Avoid direct heat (heat guns, ovens, open flame). Heat can skin the surface too fast, interfere with leveling, and trap defects. Let coats cure naturally.

Finished pieces should also be kept away from prolonged high heat.

Often a thick coat, high humidity/cool room, or not enough cure time.

• Give it more time in a warm, dry room (no heat guns).

Don’t shake—stir gently.

• Apply thinner coats.
• After stirring, let the container rest a few minutes so bubbles can rise.

Cover loosely while drying.

• If needed, lightly sand after fully dry, then apply another thin coat.

Usually moisture trapped under a coat.

• Confirm the clay is fully dry.
• Avoid heavy coats; reseal with thin layers and allow more time.