Work on fully dry Artisan Clay. If the clay is still damp, coatings can haze, trap moisture, or cure unevenly.

• Build in stages.
  Apply Dip first, add Ceramic Coat when the surface is ready, then use Gloss Top Coat for final clarity and depth.
• Thin coats. Thin, even layers level better, cure harder, and stay clearer than one heavy coat.
• Let layers set. Don’t recoat soft layers—if it dents or fingerprints, it’s not ready.
• Let it level undisturbed.
  Keep pieces flat while leveling. Cover loosely to protect from dust.

Confirm the piece is fully dry and dust-free.

• If sanding, remove dust with a soft brush or dry cloth.
• Avoid lotion/oil on hands right before finishing.

Strengthens the piece and refines the surface, helping create a smoother, more even base for the next stage.

Best practice:

• Stir gently, don’t shake.

• Apply a thin, even coat by dip or brush.

• Let it level flat, then cover loosely while it dries.

This is the image stage—where artwork, transfer, and mixed media are applied to the refined surface created by Dip.

Best practice:

• Work only on a fully dry surface.

• Apply image or transfer layers evenly and with light handling.

• Allow the piece to dry fully before applying Ceramic Coat.

Builds, smooths, and unifies the ceramic surface while preparing it for a more even final layer.

Best practice:

Apply a thin, even coat after Dip is dry.

Let it level on its own.

Allow it to dry fully before applying Gloss Top Coat.

Use Gloss Top Coat when you want extra clarity, depth, and protection.

Best practice:

• Apply a measured amount, then let it self-level.
• Avoid overworking once it’s down—apply, then step back.

Drying + Cure

Drying and cure vary with coat thickness, temperature, humidity, and airflow.

Between coats

Recoat only when the surface feels dry and firm, not cool or tacky. If it fingerprints or dents, wait longer.

Handling

Allow every layer to dry completely before handling, assembly, or adding another layer.

Full cure + durability

Allow additional cure time before wear or frequent handling. Avoid soaking or prolonged water exposure.

Top coats may take up to 30 days to fully harden.

Best leveling

Cure at room temperature in a still, dust-protected spot.

Finished pieces are intended for everyday handling, but studio finishes perform best with care:

• Avoid continuous soaking or prolonged water immersion.
• Do not dishwasher or leave submerged.
• Avoid prolonged high heat.
• Clean with a damp cloth; avoid harsh solvents or abrasives.

No. These finishes are not two-part epoxies. They don’t require measuring/mixing, and they cure without UV lamps.

Thin coats prevent trapped moisture and keep edges clean.

• Keep it flat while leveling—small tilts can pool.
• Dust control matters—cover loosely while drying.
• Record your process (number of coats + dry times) for repeatable results.
• Avoid direct heat tools.

No. These finishes are for art objects and wearables, not food contact.

No. These finishes are not two-part epoxies:

• no measuring/mixing ratio
• no pot life pressure
• no UV lamp required

They cure naturally as a water-borne coating system.

Yes. They’re water-borne and low-odor. Use standard studio practices: ventilation, surface protection, wash hands after use.

How does it handle heat? Can I use a heat gun or oven?

Avoid direct heat (heat guns, ovens, open flame). Heat can skin the surface too fast, interfere with leveling, and trap defects. Let coats cure naturally.

Finished pieces should also be kept away from prolonged high heat.

Often a thick coat, high humidity/cool room, or not enough cure time.

• Give it more time in a warm, dry room (no heat guns).

Don’t shake—stir gently.

• Apply thinner coats.
• After stirring, let the container rest a few minutes so bubbles can rise.

Cover loosely while drying.

• If needed, lightly sand after fully dry, then apply another thin coat.

Usually moisture trapped under a coat.

• Confirm the clay is fully dry.
• Avoid heavy coats; reseal with thin layers and allow more time.